History from the 1300's to 1920's Murals in Mexico City

Mexico City is a complex place.  It is currently among the largest cities in the world and boasts major universities, cultural centers, and world class art.  There is also clear poverty.  So where does one start to explore this culture - the marriage of the Spanish conquistadors with not one, but many tribes of indigenous Americans?

Today, we will start with Hector Barraza.

Hector was born in Southern Mexico but was raised in Mexico City.  And he knows the city VERY well.  He spent his youth as a financial specialist and travelled the world in that profession.  He has lived in England (learning English by reading Animal Farm by George Orwell) and twice in the United States.  He now operates a personalized tour service in Mexico City (http://www.mexicocityelitetours.com/ or on Trip Advisor at Mexico City Elite Tours).

Hector at the first hospital in the Americas
Built by the Cortes in 1524

Hector met us at our hotel for a pre-arranged tour of the historic downtown of Mexico City.  We had arranged this over the Internet/email as he learned what we were most interested in and tailored the trip to suit our personalities.

We walked to the Metro station (all the way with me asking a 100,000 questions - each of which he patiently answered).  $20 pesos (less than $2 US) later we took the train to down town.  For the record, it was clean and safe!

After we got out of the train, we began to walk the historic district. Stopping every 100 yards or so to see an important building or place.  Mostly though, we were in search of murals.  Some are very well known (like Diego Rivera's communist murals in the public buildings) while others were located after searching for small staircases above the markets.  All were impactful and truly Mexican.

Hospital at Jesus Nazareno

We started at the Hospital of Jesus Nazareno , located where Cortes and Montezuma first met in 1515.  After the Mexican revolution (1920), the Spanish were roundly lambasted and depicted as evil.  But this is just not an accurate account of history.  Yes, they conquered and did some very bad things, but they also did some very good things.  Hector believes the ENTIRE story must be known.  He points out that his history includes the Aztecs, but also the Spanish, and later the combination of both.  The Mexican history is co-mingled.

But the story was primarily told to Mexicans through art.  This is because most Mexicans were illiterate well into the 20th Century. Thus - the abundance of murals throughout the city.

The top of a mural at the Hospital

What is impressive a about Mexico City is that there is a story being told at every turn.  And it is done through art and architecture.  More impressive - Hector knows all the stories.

The painting above the mural is 16th century!

Murals on every surface

A Diego Rivera Mural

We visited the hospital. Cortes' cousin's house, a convent, several other churches, a 1500's arch-bishop's house where Aztec ruins are being excavated underneath the already historic building, and on and on...

Taking a break above the Templar Mayor ruins
These were discovered in 1978 by telephone workers

Templar Mayor - being excavated

We ended our tour at the Mexican Metropolitan Cathedral.  Having just celebrated 200 years (since the final parts were completed) it is a must see marvel.  It is famous, for among other things, the fact that it is sinking. Having been built atop Aztec ruins (like much of the city) the foundations are too heavy and are slowly sinking.

One of the alters is unbelievable.  All gold plated - it would take hours to take the whole thing in!

Royal Alter in the Mexico City Cathedral

We got back to the hotel at about 3:30 PM.  We took a ten minute rest and then walked to the grocery store.  We found that we are in a very quaint neighborhood.  Quiet and clean with great shops and bistros. After buying items necessary for survival (Herradura Tequila, Dos XX beer, Hummus and crackers, deodorant for Marci (she was tortured at having to spend $4 - but didn't hesitate spending the $30 for Tequila), and some snacks.

Then we were off to dinner.  We found an excellent place (I mean truly, outstanding in both quality and service).  It was called Las Polas.  Marci had tacos and I had soup and stewed pork.

Now we are in bed watching Animal Planet in Spanish.

Undaunted!

Feliz Navidad from Mexico City!

We got up early, excited to be on our way south.  Jessica drove us to the airport, and we were EXTREMELY early (not that we mind, it is more relaxing to sit and read at the airport than to run to a gate at the last second).

Out plane arrived and we departed about 45 minutes late.

Gourmet lunch!!

The flight was easy and enjoyable because we got bumped up to first class.  Now, before you think we are just lucky, I kinda goofed up and stumbled on a service that looks for last minute deals on first class seats (https://www.optiontown.com/).  It was roomy and the food and service fantastic.  But even though it is much cheaper than purchasing first class, it is still expensive ($200 per seat).  I would do it for sure if I was traveling across the ocean on a long flight!

Somewhere over Mexico

We landed and were out of customs and immigration in 15 minutes.  SO EASY!  We followed the suggestions in the guidebook and went straight to a taxi stand.  They sold a ticket based on the zone of the hotel we were staying in ($20 US).  Then we exchanged dollars for Pesos (the rate is $13 Pesos for $1 US, but you never get that good a rate at the airport).  We got a rate of $11.58 - so not too bad.

Quick trip to the restroom, outside door #3, a taxi was already waiting.  The guy at the curb (government employee) checked our ticket, wrote the cab number down on his paper and then our receipt (this prevents robbery by cabby's).  And off we went!

The cab was new and clean.  The driver (though very limited in English) was VERY friendly and made us feel welcome.  He explained a few things (like why tequilla is better than fruit juice), how the city is very colorful due to the holiday, that Mexico City (also known as FD - for Federal District) is as safe as New York or L.A. and that the reason the police cars all had their lights on was due to the Christmas holiday.

Angel de Indepencia

We arrived at our hotel in about 20 minutes, tipped the driver $50 MX (about 4.50 US) and went inside.  They were expecting us, got us settled quickly, and up to our room we went.

The view is stunning!  Outside the main window is a major statue in Mexico City "Angel de Indepencia".  I have included the view from our window (and if you look close you can see a police car with lights on to the left of the statue).

Marci asked if there was anywhere to eat and the only open place was Sanborn's.  It is kinda like Cracker Barrel with a buffet and beer, but only the beer makes it as good.  Well, it isn't really that good.  I had shrimp tacos and Marci had papitos (a grilled beef sandwich on stale bread).  But the service was great!

The meal (with beer) was $35 US, which is pretty high here.

We are heading to bed.  Tomorrow we meet Hector Baraza for our first tour.

Hasta Luego.....

On the road again....

On June 19, 2011, Marci and I started this post from a small room in Managua, Nicaragua (check it out Undaunted Travelers).  For those who followed (then and since), thanks!  It has been a surprise to us how many people were interested in our trip to Central America.

Since that time, we took Kiana and Jolene to San Diego (October of 2011).  Kiana got to swim with Dolphins for her birthday...

Jolene, as always, LOVED spending time on the beach.

Marci and Jolene at sunset

The only other BIG trip we took was a cruise to Hawaii.  It was stunning and we can see why people love the islands and call them paradise.

Honolulu from Diamond Head

But actually, we aren't sure we'd go back.

(I can hear the gasping across the Internet!)

You see, cruising IS amazing.  You are treated like royalty, eat like you are in a five star restaurant at every meal, and LITERALLY have no worries.  Someone is always there to make your bed, wash your clothes, get you a drink, sweep up your mess - you get it....  If you want nothing more than to be pampered, this style of vacations is for you.

But we found that many of our fellow passengers were...well...whiny jerks.  They complain about the food, they complain about the staff, they complain that there aren't enough deck chairs.  I mean, really?  Most of my shipmates look like they spend a great deal of time on Aisle 4C at Wal Mart back home.  What gives?

Well, we had almost two weeks to think about it, and I believe we came to a conclusion.  They ARE Wal Mart shoppers and believe that complaining enhances their status.  Like they are used to better treatment (as if that is possible).  And us?  well, to those of you who know us you won't be surprised, we gravitated to the crew!

Puspita - from Indonesia

Most of the crew on cruise ships come from very poor countries.  They work two shifts per day and six days per week.  And the pay (by US standards is abysmal).  But what great people!  

And that got us to thinking, the kind of people we REALLY like to spend our time with are humble citizens of the world (and not the US kind either).  

And so tomorrow, CHRISTMAS DAY 2013, we are off to our next adventure as Undaunted Travelers.  We are heading to Mexico City!

When most people hear this - we get confused looks (and a few more gasps).  They immediately ask if we are worried about being kidnapped by the drug cartels?  The answer - no, we are not.

Although there are no hard-fast rules about population estimates, Mexico City is among the top populated cities in the world (at an estimated 25 million souls).  So yeah, it is BIG and yes, there is crime.  But did you know that Mexico City sits on top of the greatest Aztec City ever built?    In 1978, telephone workers dug up the ruins of a great temple (Templo Mayor).  It turns out that the Spanish used stones from this site to build one of the most important Catholic Churches in the Americas.  And the artifacts (which continue to flow from this site) are housed in what is considered the second greatest museum in the world (#1 is the British museum in London, England).  

So for people who love history, culture, and humble happy people (us for sure) then this is one of the little known travel gems of the world.

Our next post will come from Mexico City.  Can't wait!

Lake City, Colorado - A Texan's Paradise

Today is the last official day of my vacation.  I took six weeks off (and yes, I feel blessed to be able to do this).  But please, gentle men and women of the jury, before you judge me too harshly, know that I have worked over 22 years in law enforcement, I have seen and heard things that would keep most of you awake at night; I have been spit on; hit, and had one man tried to stab me (AND I didn't shoot or even injure him).  I don't ask for understanding or agreement - just some latitude {and I exhausted all of the time I have been accumulating over the years to accomplish this treat}.


 Last week, Marci, Kiana, Morgan, and I traveled to Marci's great-aunt's summer home in Lake City, Colorado.  It is located about 50 miles up the mountains from Gunnison, Colorado (another metropolis).  The town is a quaint mining beauty - still VERY much living the silver boom of the 1870's (and not facing the reality of the 2011 need for tourists).   The many old homes are stunning reminders that the wealth of a decade (the 1870's), once propelled this small village to one of the largest towns in the new state of Colorado.  Both Gold and Silver brought THOUSANDS of American's (seeking their fortunes) to this remote high altitude abode.

American Basin - Far Above Lake City, Colorado

But for us, this visit was about family.  Sure, we saw the cute houses, visited the museum, and drove through ghost towns... but 82-year-old Ann was what REALLY made this trip special.  Ann (a multi-year docent of the Hindsdale County Museum) took us on a personal tour.  She told the rote stories she'd repeated a thousand other times (for strangers) and added a little spice for family.  It was especially cute when she puffed out her chest in pride at being a part of the group who interpreted a message from an oppressed Italian Miner found on the wall of the old museum.  She said she was happy to have been a part of telling that man's story (I don't think this was part of the traditional tour).

Ann is amazing.  She is what we all hope to be graced with for a grandmother.  She is sweet, kind, funny, playful, full of memory and life, and spunky enough to tell it like it is without fear of repercussion.  More than once I wondered how nice it would have been to grow up blessed with a grandmother like this.

I spent many hours listening to her stories (some more than once).  BUT WHAT A JOY!!!  She is so gracious, lady-like, and loving.  She made us feel welcome from the moment we got there to a devastated soul-mate when we left.  We told jokes, played scrabble, saw the life that was important to her, listen to stories, had a 'weenie' roast (does anyone REALLY say that anymore?), and sat quietly on the porch in the gloaming of the day - enjoying one another's presence.

Ann Bowling posing (reluctantly) at the site of her husband Dewey's Final Rest

Ann Bowling is a woman among women.  She has raised an amazing family, been married to a wonderful man (Dewey - whom she obviously loves and misses dearly even though he's been gone 15 years), been a part of making her community better (leading blood drives for the Red Cross for most of her adult life) and even now volunteering at the local museum...   If she is not a role model - then who is? 

Ann drives her 4x4 through a 12,000 ft Rocky Mountain stream

I, having only just met Ann Bowling, hope to see her again soon.  I want to drive into the mountains and look at the fall colors (did I forget to mention that she was 4 wheeling at 12,000 feet during our visit?), to share a cup of coco on a cold fall afternoon, and also hope to see her million dollar smile when I present her Christmas present. 

Joy.

Something we do not see enough of - yet she has in abundance - and readily gives away.....

Freedom - the Last Nicaraguan Blog

There is so much I could write about this amazing place.  And even more about the people.  If you have learned nothing, remember that Nica's are among the friendliest people on the planet.  DO NOT let your biased perspective (most likely from the 1980's) color your decision to visit this place.  If you may hate the food (you won't), find Nothing to do (again - p-l-e-a-s-e!), or dislike the humidity,  I guarantee that when you speak to your friends you will RAVE about the AMAZING people of Nicaragua!!!

However, we have been home two weeks - and I need to write about a new adventure.  So I choose to abandon all other Nica blogs and end the trip with a true insight (that, alas, I cannot take credit for). 

Freedom.

You may recall that I mentioned that Nicaragua is a Socialist Republic (the Sandanistas - under Daniel Ortega {yes, the same one} are still in power - though the opposition is EVEN more liberal: FARC).  I suppose you would not expect to see much freedom?

One night, near the end of our stay on Ometepe, a friend we met (from Texas) said to me, "I remember seeing these people and turning to Megan ad saying, 'Wow, babe, this is what it looks like to be FREE!'."  At first, this seemed a VERY odd remark.  These folks are desperately seeking to survive.  They support socialism, and think that the capitalist US is a terrible player on the world stage.  But as I listen to Jason's words of wisdom, I realized, he is SO RIGHT!

You must abandon your pre-conceived notions - about America (the US), Central America, Communism, Socialism, and Capitalism to understand this - but if you are willing.... 

Nicaraguans do not worry about car seat laws (even thought hey would likely save many lives), they don't think about stop signs, traffic stops, yielding to oncoming vehicles, transporting hazardous materials (like propane on a bicycle).  Nica's don't worry about whether they have a license to sell tortillas on the street (or even whether such a license exists).  Nica's don't worry about fishing licenses, driver's licenses, sales permits, or tax stamps.  They don't worry about real estate regulations or lawsuits because of negligent repair of a side walk.  Nica's don't worry about the health department, social services, OSHA, whether burning trash is allowed, Park Rangers (much less where you can or CANNOT put a camp fire).  They don't have Smoky the Bear and they certainly don't give a hoot about giving a hoot about polluting (no Indians crying here...).  Nica's don't have an antiquities act - steal all the pre-Columbian you can carry! There are no health regulations, seat belt admonitions, freedom (From) religion watchdogs (almost every town has a patron saint, predominantly displayed as you drive into town).  If kids are bad in school (or on the street) they get their asses kicked, and parents are embarrassed if someone else has to do it.  If a bus passes too close - MOVE OVER idiot, no sense in yelling at the driver!  And trust me, no one sticks their hand in your 'business' when you go through 'security' at the airport.

Think to your own life.  Even as a police officer - I admit to being embarrassed at the 'laws' and 'regulations' I must  enforce.  You (a US citizen - purportedly among the freest of peoples in the world) have to spend your day worrying about which regulations you may be violating and who might sue you. 

Not in Nicaragua.  If you screw up - your neighbors will let you know.  If you screw up real bad - you will be banished.  And not by the police (we only saw them act ONCE in the three weeks we were there).  It will be your friends and neighbors who will decide and exact justice.

And we, the 'freest' of the free in the world, have to worry about the every growing list of things we CANNOT do (like eating butter in New York, smoking in a public place, or GOD FORBID taking your dog out WITHOUT a LEASH!!!!).

It does leave you wondering who is REALLY free?

Until we travel again~

The Undaunted Travelers

Transportation Nica style

As most of you know, we are back home now.  However, because of the time we spent on Ometepe (when we couldn’t use the Internet) we have decided to post a few more to wrap up our observations and Nicaraguan experience.

One of the more ‘interesting’ aspects of Nicaragua (from the large city roads of Managua – to the country lanes on Ometepe) is the variety of transportation modes.  We have related some of them, but thought it might be nice to compare them all in once place.

After landing late the first night – we took the Universal Studios’ ‘Third World Taxi at Night Experience’ to our hotel (and it only cost ten dollars). As we mentioned, this small privately owned low rider (oops, “custom’ Toyota) weaves in and out of traffic, around accidents, and seemingly under large trucks, as it makes its way to a destination.  There is a general belief by taxi divers that they are better at their job if they can get you to your destination faster (dead or alive!).

Now, taxis are reliable, cheap, and the divers VERY honest.  We found them friendly and they were happy to take us places during our visit.  Also remember, they have to pay almost $7 per gallon – so they need fares to pay the bills.

The bus – we could devote an entire blog to this mode of transport.  They are reliable (although have no concept of ‘on time’).  They are even a bit comfortable, but PACKED beyond belief – and in truth, and experience not to be missed.

Private vehicles.  There just aren’t many.    But most often, they belong to the very rich.  Another interesting note, Nica’s believe that Toyota is the finest vehicle made in the world, so you see most wealthy Nica’s in Toyota SUV’s.

Motorcycle.  There are a bunch (of all varieties – except perhaps Harley’s).  They zip everywhere and wealthy young men show off on them.  Not many helmets, and families ride two or three to a bike – even holding infants on laps and handle bars.  Crazy!

Bicycle.  There are SO MANY!  This is a very common mode of transport and they ride right in the road with everyone else.  If there is a law about who has the right of way – no one here knows it.  Basically, whoever goes first gets to go.  It has NOTHING to do with tonnage or danger – it is orchestrated chaos!

Finally, most Nica’s get where they have to go by walking (this was our primary method too).  They don’t walk fast (but as much in the shade as possible). But you can see Nica’s walking EVERYWHERE!  Some carry heavy loads, others just meander to whatever place they are headed.  Groups of school kids cluster and play as they go to and fro (very visible because of their matching uniforms). 

Did I say finally?  Silly me, I forgot an ENTIRE mode of transportation in Nicaragua.  SO MANY use animals to get around.  They ride horses and donkeys, or they attach carts to oxen or mules.  It is so odd to see a caravan with an oxcart, a motorcycle, a pedestrian, a carriage, another motorcycle, a Forerunner, and three bicycles (at rush hour).

In any event, Nica’s get where they are going, and like almost everything else they do, they do it with a smile and a wave!

USA – an easy target

When in Granada – you WILL see “gringos”.  They are often a bit ‘stand offish’ and seem to be annoyed that your presence is spoiling ‘their’ Central American adventure.  ALL Nicas greet you warmly – gringos do not.

On Ometepe, you will interact with mostly gringos (although the island is populated almost exclusively by Nicas).  This is because Ometepe is a premier world traveling destination and vagrants (oops, I mean backpackers) from around the world can enjoy a police free state for about $10 per day.

We met people from Belgium, England, Germany, Switzerland, Canada, Norway (you should have seen Heidi’s shock when I belted out her national anthem!) and of course, the US.  There were some nice conversations – but in general most people don’t care for the US (including most of the backpackers from the US).

Jason - a US Professor of Anthropology

On our first night, Senor Molina and Jason (an Anthropology professor from a Southeastern Missouri college) heaped disdain on the US for its poor educational system, poor health care system, ‘closed minded’ attitude, overbearing world influence, the crime rates, and on and on.  We sat silently.  Senor Molina, to enforce a point, told the following story about the terrible US health care system:

A friend of his was morbidly obese (typically a self-induced condition – I’m just sayin’).  He decided to undergo gastric bypass.  The procedure (done for free in Nicaragua) went terribly bad and he was very sick.  To remedy this he traveled to the US – knowing that one of the best hospitals to fix this was in Miami.  The doctors there agreed to perform the surgery, but the hospital required a substantial ($75,000) down payment – prior to the elective surgery (no doubt this policy results from people getting surgery and then fleeing the country without payment).  The man found the money, got the surgery (which was VERY successful) and then left without paying the remainder of the $400,000 bill.  What a terrible system!

I sat there thinking, “I must be missing something”?  A foreign national, from a country with free (but obviously inferior) health-care, came to the US (where there is VERY good care) and was treated for less than a 25% down-payment.  He got fixed, fled the rest of the bill (which no doubt, we are now all paying for) and went home well. For a condition HE BROUGHT ON HIMSELF.  I am not sure what the better answer was.  I guess we were supposed to pay for it all?  Later, a Canadian couple whispered that had the man traveled to Canada, he wouldn’t have been treated for free and would have had more than a year’s wait. 

To make things worse, Jason (sporting his blonde dred locks) was happy to rail against all things American (oops – US). 

I left thinking that I could have spent the evening pointing out the terrible poverty, lack of education, and obvious class system of Nicaragua.  I could note the trash in the streets, the untreated water, the electrical blackouts, and lack of any government infrastructure (schools, roads, social services, low income assistance, animal services, etc.).  But I did not.  Because it isn’t respectful to visit someone’s house and to point out the worst aspects.  And I kept hearing Thumper from Disney’s Bambi, “If you can’t say nothing nice, don’t say nothing at all.”