The Most Important Business Lunch EVER!

We have been keeping the lunch meeting we've had scheduled (three times now) a secret.  Today, (finally) it happened.  And I am sure (not) you are hanging on the edge of your seat wanting to know more....

As you may recall, on Sunday we met a group of 'street' kids in front of the San Francisco Cathedral.   We had a great time with them, and as you have read, they paid me for a photo of their little brother.  It was humbling.

We decided it would be cool to print the photos (tough to do in color in Granada) and then find the kids and "sell" them the photos (for 1 $C - or .004 cents).  We decided to take the kids to lunch and then do the photo thing.  I found the ringleader (it was so cute because he jumped right into my arms when I saw him) and he agreed to find the girls and meet Marci and I near the Central Park.  The next day, we bought a huge pizza, made arrangements to have two tables (with cloths) and a waiter.  And then we waited, and waited, and.....

Finally (after two days), I was about to give up.  In a last ditch effort, I asked the Principe to step in.  Two hours later....

The kids meet up with us to see what we are up to.

So Allen found the ringleader pretty quickly (Miguel - third from the left - now pelon (bald)).  Miguel explained that he didn't show because the girls I had taken photos of were from Managua and were gone - so he figured I would be disappointed and just didn't show.

Oh well, kids are kids, and these guys are as poor as the last group.  What the heck!!!

Allan had told us that the pizza was very nice.  However, there is another place (called Tip Top) that is right off the square, that requires a 'great deal' of money to eat at, AND has a play area that the kids have heard about their entire lives.  So off to Tip Top!

Marci's new friend (she wouldn't let other girls get close)

Waiting for lunch

When we got to the restaurant, the security guard refused the kids entry until Marci stepped up and told him that they were her guests.  He seemed baffled and unsure of what to do - so she just grabbed some hands and walked right in!

The kids were WIDE EYED (none of them had EVER even been inside the building).  They looked at EVERYTHING.  Marci had given them a lecture (she is a teacher, right?) and they all sat down and were quiet.  They were trembling to get to the play equipment (again, the first opportunity to play in a place like this - EVER).  Marci got them settled, reminded them of the rules, and set 'em free!

Bursting out of the slide!

This girl was adorable!  Very proper, she carefully held her dress as she came down the slide.

This girl and her brother sit just outside the building with their parents (who sell fruit from a horse cart) every day.  This was the first time they had actually been inside.

The girls got their hands washed first - so they got drinks first

Soon the lunch was on its way.  We ordered the largest two 'family' meals the restaurant makes (it is a fried chicken place).  But on our two block walk, we'd picked up a few more stragglers and were now up to eleven kids, two young men (who wanted to be sure the kids weren't being sought for bad purposes), and Allan, Marci and I.  We needed a LOT of food!

The young men though, even after being told they could order anything they wanted, shared a basket of chicken wings.  We later learned they loved baseball but had NEVER seen a game on T.V.  These are for real poor folks.

Here are some photos of the kids when the food arrived:

Ready to eat (just washed hands - probably the first time in a LONG time)

A great day! 

One lesson we may never really learn.  Good news travels VERY fast and one of the kids'  mothers brought her other two daughters to join in the fun.  By that time we only had one piece of chicken (Marci already gave half of hers to another kid - sucker!) and a few fries.  We gathered what we could and sent it outside.  But the sisters went to the window to tell her what had happened to them.

Talking to the sister who didn't make it in time.  Note the dirty feet

The cost?  $C 1232 ($55.00 + $7.50 tip).  The experience?  PRICELESS.

After we were done, we headed outside to take a few more shots and say our goodbyes. 

A fond memory with our new Nica friends!

The Tip Top made sure that all the kids got masks.  Unlike the US - no one said, "This is stupid".  Even the young men wore masks and played and LAUGHED!

PS  People can be butt heads anywhere.  One wealthy Nica woman refused to let her grandkids play on the playground because 'our' street kids were there.  We got a few nasty looks - but also some smiles.  Oh well, the Nica's we wanted happy were ECSTATIC!  And so were we.  Definitely the best business lunch ever and a memory none of us will soon forget.....

Real Estate in Nicaragua

One of the things that brought us to Nicaragua (besides the Tequila I mean), was an episode of International House Hunters (HGN).  A couple (in Granada) looked at UNBELIEVABLE colonial style homes near the Central Park - and the cost blew us away.  This couldn't be true!

We started looking on our own - and were pretty impressed with what can be bought here.

A little history.  Within the past decade (when the economy was booming) there was a great interest in owning property in Costa Rica.  And for good reason.  It is gorgeous, stable, and WAS a pretty good buy.  But after American investors flocked in, the prices got high too.  Then came other Central American paradises (like Panama - still cheaper than Costa Rica but not by much).  Eventually, countries like Ecuador, Honduras, and Nicaragua.  Speculators (far fewer) bought very cheap properties and waited for the Costa Rican 'type' boom.  And then, the world economy collapsed.   The short answer regarding the current market?  Many very nice homes (far cheaper than they were a few years ago) that Nicaraguans can't afford to even look at.

Nicaragua also suffers from a world perception that is stuck in 1985.  That war, as devastating as it was, is an ancient memory.  And there is far more visible damage from the earthquake of 1992 (Managua) than the war.  Here is the reality:

The weather is HOT, the people are as friendly as any I've met - ANYWHERE.  The beer is cold (and cheap), the cost of living is next to nothing, the crime rate is non-existent, and the price is right. 

Before you freak out thinking we've had too much rum, DON'T worry.  We were just looking (but it's pretty fun).

Here are some glimpses :

 Casa Alta - Three bedrooms, three bathrooms, swimming pool, interior garden.  $350,000.

Casa Yami: This home is one of the first 100 built in Granada (in the mid 1500's).  High ceilings, ornate wood, four bedrooms, four bathrooms, gorgeous.  Price $345,000.  There are more than 3,000 sq feet in this home!

We loved this one (the houses here have names, and this is called 'Casa Oklahoma'). 

Almost perfect, with no renovating needed.  $350,000.  It has 5,000 sq feet, five bedrooms, four bathrooms, a pool, separate indoor garden.  Huge living space.  LOVE IT

This was built (and is being operated) as a hotel  Sure would make a nice five bedroom house.

Known as the Bohemian hotel, each room has a full bath.  There is a nice garden, and the unfinished lot next door is included.  It has been plumbed for a large sized pool.  $349,000

So, if you are looking for a warm place to retire with a low cost of living and REALLY nice people....


PS The important business meeting we had scheduled for 1:30 didn't work out and we are hoping to get together tomorrow.  Will report!

Hasta Manana

Domingo - Día de Dios en Granada

This morning we awoke to loud explosions - not a typical American Sunday morning (you'll understand after watching the video)....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brf9DxU0v44

We made our own breakfast again.  This time we fried the queso (it's known as dry cheese) until it was a 'bubble gum' like consistency.   At that point, the cheese is spread onto a handmade tortilla.  OMG!  We also had an egg and of course, gallo de pinto.

The Granada Cathedral

We set out into Granada (sans Principe) at about 8:00.  We took our cameras and headed for church (and there are PLENTY to choose from).  We got many good shots and video.  We also got a drink (water) in the Parque and people watched for a while.  There was a barber cutting poor kids' hair for free.  We have seen some big hearts here.

The sacrament

The crest of the San Francisco convent

Parading the blessed sacrament

Mary and Jesus

We took a bunch of people photos: 

Family going to church

A vendor shooing flies

'Marci's kids' in the Parque

Nica girls

Marci 'teaching' photography

 

Old friends after church

Watching his boss' nice car as he goes to church

Que Linda!

We also took many pictures of kids begging outside the church (very common).  I am going to dedicate a whole blog to the kids of Nicaragua, but these deserve a mention.  They are cute and clever - they know how to get money.  Most people just say no or ignore them.  I like to get playful and take photos.  Of course, they always tell you it will cost a dollar - but if you spend some time with them it gets pretty funny.  I told the kids that I was a 'profesional' and said that they needed to pay me before I'd take a photo (I demanded 5 $C (about .25)).   They laughed and laughed, but believe it or not, one girl DID finally pay me $C 2 for a picture of the baby.  (Of course, I returned the money and gave them an additional $C 5 - they were SO happy and waved longingly as we left.)

"Astounded" that I would ask for $

Happy to be spoken 'to' and not 'At'

Big brother

The baby

The $C shot - hope it was worth it!

 

Making a WORLD of Difference

Our first try at Nica breakfast!

Today (Saturday 6/25/11) marks one week in Nicaragua.  Viva Nica!

We woke up and decided to cook our own breakfast.  We'd bought some items from the market (it will have its own blog) yesterday on the way back from the volcano.  We purchased eggs, cheese, homemade butter (mantaquilla), peppers, and an onion.  We were just missing the gallo de pinto (rice and beans) - but the lady downstairs gave us some! 

Allan was to meet us at 10:00 to go look at a house that is a "really good deal" at 10 - today he was in our room by 9:30.  We goofed around for over an hour - he looked at photos of our family and life in Strasburg USA.  He can't imagine what it feels like to be in weather below freezing (and don't mention that freezing to him is 32* to us).

He saw a photo of Michael snowmobiling and is afraid to see that much snow in one place.  He said if he was there he could fit "in the oven to sleep".

We headed out - but soon hit torrential rain.  Marci and Allan waited it out, while I went to get jackets and an umbrella.  Did I mention that it is the rainy season?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LD0zimudXvk

Anyway, I got the stuff and found Marci and Allan in the Cathedral.  Those who know me well - know that I have some amazing luck.  In fact, I've been dubbed 'Forest Gump' for all the places I happen to be and people I happen to meet.  What can I say.  When I entered the church, they were having a VERY special service to celebrate the bishop's fifty year anniversary in the church.  All of the rich and famous from Nicaragua were present, and we took photos as they entered a house across the plaza for a feast.  Before the service was over though - we stood at the front of the church with the sick and poor (they were waiting for the service to get over because they feed the poor on Saturday's).  We watched the kids play and took photos.  One woman secretly tried to get me to pay her for sex so she could feed her four children.  So sad....

A badly burned woman (by her husband) now begs

After this we went to a very special place.  Allan picked it out just for Marci.  It is called Tio Antonio Centro Social (Uncle Anthony's Social Center).  www.tioantonio.org

Anthony is from Madrid Spain.  He is a chef by profession, and several years ago he moved to Granada to open his own restaurant.  He bought a large colonial property and started his dream.  Soon though, he found that he needed greater income to get things going, so he opened his large property to US tourists.  He saved some of the rooms for the handicapped youth of Nicaragua, whom he'd noticed were abandoned and usually on the streets begging.

Before long, the tourists were busy smoking marijuana and bringing prostitutes in at all hours.  He'd kick them out, but lose money on every deal.  Eventually, the tourists wanted to go somewhere more willing to allow their pleasures, and Anotonio wanted more room for the downtrodden.

Antonio

He gave up on his restaurant, found some friends who were willing to donate some capital, and he started the Center (the kids call him uncle (or Tio) thus, the name). 

Antonio realized that helping and feeding the kids was not enough.  He saw that when they begged for money, they soon spent it (often on drugs, paint to sniff, or other such vices) so he decided to teach them a trade.  This enabled them to earn their own money and also have pride in their work - it would lift them up.  And it did!

Impaired workers making hammocks

Antonio has 38 workers.  Most are hearing or speaking impaired.  He had tried to get them jobs in restaurants in his early days, but no one would hire them.  Now they work in his 'factory' making hammocks (Nicaragua is known for this).  These are sold from between $30 - $60.  All of the money goes back into the Center (which takes between $1800 - $5000 per month to feed, employ, and operate).  On Mondays, Anotnio has a pediatrician who comes in and gives free medical service.  He says that infant formula is one of the biggest needs then (one can of formula costs $C150 and an average family makes a little over twice that per week).

Marci was nervous, but asked Antonio how he lets people know that he is not running a 'sweat shop' (profiting from the kid's labor).  Antonio said it was a very good question.  He said that you could ask any kid on the street (they all know him) and also contact the Minister of Children (social services) who can vouch for his work.  He also told Marci that she was welcome at any time, and he would like her to go through his books, $C by $C. 

I asked Antonio if he accepted gifts.  He said yes, but was hesitant.  I asked him to explain.  He said that he would much prefer US citizens to buy hammocks so that the kids would have pride and know that they were a part of earning enough to keep things going.  He said that is one of the most important parts of what makes the center work.  The kids earn money, buy things, and then show other beggars on the street, who then come to the center.  Antonio has put three Nica children through college.

If you ever want to get a nice gift, or even buy a cheap item for your patio, think about sending $25 to Tio Antonio.  You'll get a hand made treasure and make a world of difference.  www.tioantonio.org

Here are some other views from Granada today....  (PS - If there is anything you like - or would like to know more about, please comment!)

A boy waiting for food in front of the church

He looks like he is begging - but this was his pose for me

How trash is collected

A woman waits for Saturday food

Reserva Natural Volcan Mombacho

(NOTE: The world is smaller than you think.  I am listening to the Rockies and Yankees game live)

First of all - we are both feeling MUCH better.  Whatever Dr. Yader Perez prescribed - it has worked like a charm!

We woke up on Thursday morning at 7:00.  It was nice and cool as there was a HUGE storm during the night.  We went down to breakfast at the hotel.  It was yummy: gallo de pinto (rice and beans), huevos (1 scrambled), corn tortilla, fruit juice (fresh squeezed - who knows what the hell fruit), cafe with leche (a VERY weak brown liquid with a coffee like flavor).  We didn't eat it all - so saved the 'left overs' to put in a baggie and bring out into the street for some needy soul (and there are plenty).  We were a little disappointed in the cost ($10 for both of us - are we getting spoiled perhaps?). 

Allan said that he would meet us at 8:00 'gringo time' and I said that I would get worried at 9:00 (in other words - don't be late again). Late - HASTA!

Anyway, Marci is in a hurry to see if we can do anything by ourselves.  It is fun to be 'on your own' in a country where you speak very little of the language.  No worries though, within two blocks we were in a taxi, fare negotiated to less than half the asking price ($C150) and on the way to Mt. Mombacho!

We had seen this attraction in all the guide books and knew it was a must.  Mombacho is a dormant volcano just outside Granada.  In fact, 20,000 years ago, the mountain last erupted and that eruption created the isletas we went to on Tuesday.  

Today, the drive was about 30 minutes away, so we think we got a good deal!

A Nica 7-11 (get your drinks before heading up)

Mt. Mombacho ($15 per person US) is GORGEOUS.  It is much cooler and very clean. 

Granada from the top of Mombacho

In fact, it might be really nice to buy property here and build a house!

The path in the cloud forest

The reserve is not really a national park.  It is privately owned, but to a person from the US (the term 'American' is a bit offensive - as these folks are also 'American'), it seems very much like a National Park.  It is in a 'cloud' forest (very different from a rain forest).  That means that it is almost always in the clouds and the eco-system is amazing.  There are so many flowers, bugs, and animals that you have only seen in a zoo.

Once you get to the top you learn that it will cost additional money to have a 'guide'.  Now, there are many 'self serve' trails, but unless you are REALLY comfortable with "No va mas alla de este punto o en el culo se cae en el volcan" (Don't go past this point or your ass will fall into the volcano) it's probably worth hiring one of the guides.  For the 'combination' tour (a mixture of easy and difficult trails) we paid about $15 more dollars for a three hour tour with Augustino.

Our guide - Augustino

For Nicas, there is a huge incentive to learn English.  This enables them to serve in many capacities in jobs that do not require hard labor.  So for Augustino and others, going to the English Language Academy (expensive) is a ticket to steady employment.  Augustino was fun and patient. 

A note about the trail.  In the US when they say difficult, it means that your wheelchair might get stuck on some branches as you meander towards the next point of interest.  In Nicaragua, that means "make sure your caribiner's are well placed and that your rope is new because we are about to rappel a few hundred meters back to the trail".  Marci was a real trooper though - and got all the way up to the 'second highest point' (the highest is only about 500 meters away - but it takes three days (1.5 for Gabe) to get there - no shit...).

Marci reaches the top!

We got back to the 'biological center' just in time to avoid the MASSIVE downpour.  If you think you've seen a hard rain, you are kidding yourself.  This is where rain is born!

Mombacho's dormatorio

We had already opted to pay an additional $55 (total) to stay the night in the 'dormatorio" (who says you can't speak Spanish?).  Since it is the down season (wet) we are the only guests.  This price includes dinner, a nighttime tour, and breakfast (with the exceptional accommodations).  We were a little worried that our hosts (at the hotel) would be worried about us.  Augustino tried to find the number in the phone book for over an hour, but to no avail - so, whatever, we are staying the night anyway.

After watching the (totally rude) Europeans stagger in soaking wet :-), we also watched them fight each other for the few seats on the first 'bus' down the mountain.  They left their trash all over the place (we didn't mind picking it up) and eventually, cleared out.  By the way, call me prejudiced (or call me Australopithicus Robustus) but one of the weirdest things I have ever seen is a 100% Chinese man speaking fluent Spanish....brrrrrr).

Once things were quiet (except for the howling wind and rain) we wet up to the dorm and took a siesta.  At about 6:15, Luis (our night time guide) came to get us for dinner.  He had candles (we thought very romantic) but he explained that there was a 'blackout' (power outage) and we had to make due (don't tell them - but we would have paid EXTRA).  Dinner was great (rice and beans - really???, plantains, chicken, weak coffee, and vinegar cole slaw.  Then we readied to go out.


The rain was done (still windy - but cool and felt good!).  And we headed into the darkest night ever (there are no stars since it is in the clouds).  I have a little video to give you an idea...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWxXZu09WAQ

The purpose of night time tours is to see the jungle life that doesn't come out during the day (like puma's - you should see Marci shaking).  Actually, Puma's are a day time Amigo, but I told Marci I would tie a pork chop to her Camelback if she wasn't nice.  We were looking for three main creatures, an indigenous salamander (I know - $55 is pretty steep for this slimy little bastard), the 'red eyed' tree frog, the sloth, and of course Puma (here kitty, kitty).  We got lucky and saw everything (except for the pussy cat).  In fact, our guide had never seen a sloth on the ground, and we got many great pics to prove his big moment...

Sloth 'running' away

'Red Eyed' tree frog

This night was truly one of a kind.  If you ever get to Nicaragua, this is a 'don't miss' experience!

We got back to the biological center at about 9:30 and the power was back on.  All the employees (the rangers (2) and the cook(1) were watching a Spanish soap opera (scantily clad women in prison - did I mention that I like this country?).  But since the sun sets at 6:00 PM (EVERY day), everyone was ready to sleep.

The accommodations (very nice compared to Grand Gulch) were fine, but Marci didn't sleep much.  It might have been the gale force winds outside.  But in all - WOW!

We woke up at about 6:00 (the cook had started her day).  At about 6:30 breakfast was ready (thirty minutes early!) and we went down to eat.  I wish we'd have taken a photo (but at some point you just have to enjoy things).  It was GORGEOUS!  A table cloth, toast, gallo de pinto, fresh banana and papaya, cafe (yeah right, brown water), a whole pitcher of hot leche (milk - got me scratching), and a scrambled egg.  YUMMY!

Kiana would LOVE her!

A wild baby deer

Then we were on our own.  We meandered about, hoping to see a howler monkey (one of the animals we missed during the hurricane).  We didn't see one (though we heard plenty) but Marci did make a new friend.



Then we sat for an hour or so in the morning rain..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbiO3zHIjCk

A 'glass' butterfly

An Owl's Eye

Finally, we went up and took a nap, and then down the mountain to the butterfly exhibit ($2 per person).    











We walked down to the main road (avoiding taxi's as we wanted to try the 'local' bus) and went back to Granada in a school bus made for 30 - with at least 60 passengers (cost?  $.50).

Once back in Granada, we went through the market and bought some things then walked back toward our hotel.  It was about 3km away, and as we got near Central Parque....

El Principe.