Los niños de Granada, Nicaragua (The children of Granada)

You cannot be here, for even an hour, without seeing the beauty, hope, and desperation on the faces of Granada's children.

Marci shared our breakfast with this poor boy from the Market

This boy hangs around the market all day begging - his family can't afford schooling

And there is something magical about them.

Watching Marci teach English

'Posing' for the camera - they LOVE 'fotos'

We have just fallen in love with these poor but almost always happy and playful, children of Nicaragua.

Waiting for the free doctor

There are many 'classes' of people in Nicaragua.  From the exceptionally poor...

Dad brings the family and laundry home on a wagon

To the children of the wealthy class...

Hurrying to church

His dad owns the hotel - he has a bell to ring for the servant

And even a bit of middle class (a very small group)...

Her parents own a permanent stall in the market which does good business

It can be heartbreaking to see them eating breakfast...

Eating cabbage and potatoes behind their mother's temporary stall in the market

But they never cease to make you smile with their infectious zeal for life...

Boy with skin disease waiting for the free doctor

Boys playing in the market

Josh - 'works' for Tio Antonio's hammock crew

Learning how to use the camera after a free haircut

Selling chicken in the market (live)

The kids WANT to learn - here parents pay

These boys spend their days making figures out of reeds to sell to Americans as they eat dinner on the patios at night

It is so sad, but also so refreshing.  These are not spoiled brats (any of them) and are polite and curious.  They love to be played with and they love to have their photos taken.  Most of all, they love it when you stop and spend a few minutes trying to communicate.  We have spent a great deal of time at this - today I taught about 50 boys at the school how to play a game my grandfather taught me as a child (One person holds his hands palm up and the other palm down and tries to hit the other before he can move out of the way).  My memory will probably be thoroughly cussed by parents, teachers and principals for years. 

These kids though, among the poorest of the poor, PAID me to take a photo of their baby brother.  I am going to get it printed and present it to them when I see them again.  But you can see in their smiles and waves that they were sad when we moved on.  Like all kids, they just want to be loved~

After paying me for a photo - they stole my heart!

To the children of Nicaragua, "Que Dios los bendiga todos los días de tu vida!"

Domingo - Día de Dios en Granada

This morning we awoke to loud explosions - not a typical American Sunday morning (you'll understand after watching the video)....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brf9DxU0v44

We made our own breakfast again.  This time we fried the queso (it's known as dry cheese) until it was a 'bubble gum' like consistency.   At that point, the cheese is spread onto a handmade tortilla.  OMG!  We also had an egg and of course, gallo de pinto.

The Granada Cathedral

We set out into Granada (sans Principe) at about 8:00.  We took our cameras and headed for church (and there are PLENTY to choose from).  We got many good shots and video.  We also got a drink (water) in the Parque and people watched for a while.  There was a barber cutting poor kids' hair for free.  We have seen some big hearts here.

The sacrament

The crest of the San Francisco convent

Parading the blessed sacrament

Mary and Jesus

We took a bunch of people photos: 

Family going to church

A vendor shooing flies

'Marci's kids' in the Parque

Nica girls

Marci 'teaching' photography

 

Old friends after church

Watching his boss' nice car as he goes to church

Que Linda!

We also took many pictures of kids begging outside the church (very common).  I am going to dedicate a whole blog to the kids of Nicaragua, but these deserve a mention.  They are cute and clever - they know how to get money.  Most people just say no or ignore them.  I like to get playful and take photos.  Of course, they always tell you it will cost a dollar - but if you spend some time with them it gets pretty funny.  I told the kids that I was a 'profesional' and said that they needed to pay me before I'd take a photo (I demanded 5 $C (about .25)).   They laughed and laughed, but believe it or not, one girl DID finally pay me $C 2 for a picture of the baby.  (Of course, I returned the money and gave them an additional $C 5 - they were SO happy and waved longingly as we left.)

"Astounded" that I would ask for $

Happy to be spoken 'to' and not 'At'

Big brother

The baby

The $C shot - hope it was worth it!

 

Making a WORLD of Difference

Our first try at Nica breakfast!

Today (Saturday 6/25/11) marks one week in Nicaragua.  Viva Nica!

We woke up and decided to cook our own breakfast.  We'd bought some items from the market (it will have its own blog) yesterday on the way back from the volcano.  We purchased eggs, cheese, homemade butter (mantaquilla), peppers, and an onion.  We were just missing the gallo de pinto (rice and beans) - but the lady downstairs gave us some! 

Allan was to meet us at 10:00 to go look at a house that is a "really good deal" at 10 - today he was in our room by 9:30.  We goofed around for over an hour - he looked at photos of our family and life in Strasburg USA.  He can't imagine what it feels like to be in weather below freezing (and don't mention that freezing to him is 32* to us).

He saw a photo of Michael snowmobiling and is afraid to see that much snow in one place.  He said if he was there he could fit "in the oven to sleep".

We headed out - but soon hit torrential rain.  Marci and Allan waited it out, while I went to get jackets and an umbrella.  Did I mention that it is the rainy season?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LD0zimudXvk

Anyway, I got the stuff and found Marci and Allan in the Cathedral.  Those who know me well - know that I have some amazing luck.  In fact, I've been dubbed 'Forest Gump' for all the places I happen to be and people I happen to meet.  What can I say.  When I entered the church, they were having a VERY special service to celebrate the bishop's fifty year anniversary in the church.  All of the rich and famous from Nicaragua were present, and we took photos as they entered a house across the plaza for a feast.  Before the service was over though - we stood at the front of the church with the sick and poor (they were waiting for the service to get over because they feed the poor on Saturday's).  We watched the kids play and took photos.  One woman secretly tried to get me to pay her for sex so she could feed her four children.  So sad....

A badly burned woman (by her husband) now begs

After this we went to a very special place.  Allan picked it out just for Marci.  It is called Tio Antonio Centro Social (Uncle Anthony's Social Center).  www.tioantonio.org

Anthony is from Madrid Spain.  He is a chef by profession, and several years ago he moved to Granada to open his own restaurant.  He bought a large colonial property and started his dream.  Soon though, he found that he needed greater income to get things going, so he opened his large property to US tourists.  He saved some of the rooms for the handicapped youth of Nicaragua, whom he'd noticed were abandoned and usually on the streets begging.

Before long, the tourists were busy smoking marijuana and bringing prostitutes in at all hours.  He'd kick them out, but lose money on every deal.  Eventually, the tourists wanted to go somewhere more willing to allow their pleasures, and Anotonio wanted more room for the downtrodden.

Antonio

He gave up on his restaurant, found some friends who were willing to donate some capital, and he started the Center (the kids call him uncle (or Tio) thus, the name). 

Antonio realized that helping and feeding the kids was not enough.  He saw that when they begged for money, they soon spent it (often on drugs, paint to sniff, or other such vices) so he decided to teach them a trade.  This enabled them to earn their own money and also have pride in their work - it would lift them up.  And it did!

Impaired workers making hammocks

Antonio has 38 workers.  Most are hearing or speaking impaired.  He had tried to get them jobs in restaurants in his early days, but no one would hire them.  Now they work in his 'factory' making hammocks (Nicaragua is known for this).  These are sold from between $30 - $60.  All of the money goes back into the Center (which takes between $1800 - $5000 per month to feed, employ, and operate).  On Mondays, Anotnio has a pediatrician who comes in and gives free medical service.  He says that infant formula is one of the biggest needs then (one can of formula costs $C150 and an average family makes a little over twice that per week).

Marci was nervous, but asked Antonio how he lets people know that he is not running a 'sweat shop' (profiting from the kid's labor).  Antonio said it was a very good question.  He said that you could ask any kid on the street (they all know him) and also contact the Minister of Children (social services) who can vouch for his work.  He also told Marci that she was welcome at any time, and he would like her to go through his books, $C by $C. 

I asked Antonio if he accepted gifts.  He said yes, but was hesitant.  I asked him to explain.  He said that he would much prefer US citizens to buy hammocks so that the kids would have pride and know that they were a part of earning enough to keep things going.  He said that is one of the most important parts of what makes the center work.  The kids earn money, buy things, and then show other beggars on the street, who then come to the center.  Antonio has put three Nica children through college.

If you ever want to get a nice gift, or even buy a cheap item for your patio, think about sending $25 to Tio Antonio.  You'll get a hand made treasure and make a world of difference.  www.tioantonio.org

Here are some other views from Granada today....  (PS - If there is anything you like - or would like to know more about, please comment!)

A boy waiting for food in front of the church

He looks like he is begging - but this was his pose for me

How trash is collected

A woman waits for Saturday food

Reserva Natural Volcan Mombacho

(NOTE: The world is smaller than you think.  I am listening to the Rockies and Yankees game live)

First of all - we are both feeling MUCH better.  Whatever Dr. Yader Perez prescribed - it has worked like a charm!

We woke up on Thursday morning at 7:00.  It was nice and cool as there was a HUGE storm during the night.  We went down to breakfast at the hotel.  It was yummy: gallo de pinto (rice and beans), huevos (1 scrambled), corn tortilla, fruit juice (fresh squeezed - who knows what the hell fruit), cafe with leche (a VERY weak brown liquid with a coffee like flavor).  We didn't eat it all - so saved the 'left overs' to put in a baggie and bring out into the street for some needy soul (and there are plenty).  We were a little disappointed in the cost ($10 for both of us - are we getting spoiled perhaps?). 

Allan said that he would meet us at 8:00 'gringo time' and I said that I would get worried at 9:00 (in other words - don't be late again). Late - HASTA!

Anyway, Marci is in a hurry to see if we can do anything by ourselves.  It is fun to be 'on your own' in a country where you speak very little of the language.  No worries though, within two blocks we were in a taxi, fare negotiated to less than half the asking price ($C150) and on the way to Mt. Mombacho!

We had seen this attraction in all the guide books and knew it was a must.  Mombacho is a dormant volcano just outside Granada.  In fact, 20,000 years ago, the mountain last erupted and that eruption created the isletas we went to on Tuesday.  

Today, the drive was about 30 minutes away, so we think we got a good deal!

A Nica 7-11 (get your drinks before heading up)

Mt. Mombacho ($15 per person US) is GORGEOUS.  It is much cooler and very clean. 

Granada from the top of Mombacho

In fact, it might be really nice to buy property here and build a house!

The path in the cloud forest

The reserve is not really a national park.  It is privately owned, but to a person from the US (the term 'American' is a bit offensive - as these folks are also 'American'), it seems very much like a National Park.  It is in a 'cloud' forest (very different from a rain forest).  That means that it is almost always in the clouds and the eco-system is amazing.  There are so many flowers, bugs, and animals that you have only seen in a zoo.

Once you get to the top you learn that it will cost additional money to have a 'guide'.  Now, there are many 'self serve' trails, but unless you are REALLY comfortable with "No va mas alla de este punto o en el culo se cae en el volcan" (Don't go past this point or your ass will fall into the volcano) it's probably worth hiring one of the guides.  For the 'combination' tour (a mixture of easy and difficult trails) we paid about $15 more dollars for a three hour tour with Augustino.

Our guide - Augustino

For Nicas, there is a huge incentive to learn English.  This enables them to serve in many capacities in jobs that do not require hard labor.  So for Augustino and others, going to the English Language Academy (expensive) is a ticket to steady employment.  Augustino was fun and patient. 

A note about the trail.  In the US when they say difficult, it means that your wheelchair might get stuck on some branches as you meander towards the next point of interest.  In Nicaragua, that means "make sure your caribiner's are well placed and that your rope is new because we are about to rappel a few hundred meters back to the trail".  Marci was a real trooper though - and got all the way up to the 'second highest point' (the highest is only about 500 meters away - but it takes three days (1.5 for Gabe) to get there - no shit...).

Marci reaches the top!

We got back to the 'biological center' just in time to avoid the MASSIVE downpour.  If you think you've seen a hard rain, you are kidding yourself.  This is where rain is born!

Mombacho's dormatorio

We had already opted to pay an additional $55 (total) to stay the night in the 'dormatorio" (who says you can't speak Spanish?).  Since it is the down season (wet) we are the only guests.  This price includes dinner, a nighttime tour, and breakfast (with the exceptional accommodations).  We were a little worried that our hosts (at the hotel) would be worried about us.  Augustino tried to find the number in the phone book for over an hour, but to no avail - so, whatever, we are staying the night anyway.

After watching the (totally rude) Europeans stagger in soaking wet :-), we also watched them fight each other for the few seats on the first 'bus' down the mountain.  They left their trash all over the place (we didn't mind picking it up) and eventually, cleared out.  By the way, call me prejudiced (or call me Australopithicus Robustus) but one of the weirdest things I have ever seen is a 100% Chinese man speaking fluent Spanish....brrrrrr).

Once things were quiet (except for the howling wind and rain) we wet up to the dorm and took a siesta.  At about 6:15, Luis (our night time guide) came to get us for dinner.  He had candles (we thought very romantic) but he explained that there was a 'blackout' (power outage) and we had to make due (don't tell them - but we would have paid EXTRA).  Dinner was great (rice and beans - really???, plantains, chicken, weak coffee, and vinegar cole slaw.  Then we readied to go out.


The rain was done (still windy - but cool and felt good!).  And we headed into the darkest night ever (there are no stars since it is in the clouds).  I have a little video to give you an idea...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWxXZu09WAQ

The purpose of night time tours is to see the jungle life that doesn't come out during the day (like puma's - you should see Marci shaking).  Actually, Puma's are a day time Amigo, but I told Marci I would tie a pork chop to her Camelback if she wasn't nice.  We were looking for three main creatures, an indigenous salamander (I know - $55 is pretty steep for this slimy little bastard), the 'red eyed' tree frog, the sloth, and of course Puma (here kitty, kitty).  We got lucky and saw everything (except for the pussy cat).  In fact, our guide had never seen a sloth on the ground, and we got many great pics to prove his big moment...

Sloth 'running' away

'Red Eyed' tree frog

This night was truly one of a kind.  If you ever get to Nicaragua, this is a 'don't miss' experience!

We got back to the biological center at about 9:30 and the power was back on.  All the employees (the rangers (2) and the cook(1) were watching a Spanish soap opera (scantily clad women in prison - did I mention that I like this country?).  But since the sun sets at 6:00 PM (EVERY day), everyone was ready to sleep.

The accommodations (very nice compared to Grand Gulch) were fine, but Marci didn't sleep much.  It might have been the gale force winds outside.  But in all - WOW!

We woke up at about 6:00 (the cook had started her day).  At about 6:30 breakfast was ready (thirty minutes early!) and we went down to eat.  I wish we'd have taken a photo (but at some point you just have to enjoy things).  It was GORGEOUS!  A table cloth, toast, gallo de pinto, fresh banana and papaya, cafe (yeah right, brown water), a whole pitcher of hot leche (milk - got me scratching), and a scrambled egg.  YUMMY!

Kiana would LOVE her!

A wild baby deer

Then we were on our own.  We meandered about, hoping to see a howler monkey (one of the animals we missed during the hurricane).  We didn't see one (though we heard plenty) but Marci did make a new friend.



Then we sat for an hour or so in the morning rain..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbiO3zHIjCk

A 'glass' butterfly

An Owl's Eye

Finally, we went up and took a nap, and then down the mountain to the butterfly exhibit ($2 per person).    











We walked down to the main road (avoiding taxi's as we wanted to try the 'local' bus) and went back to Granada in a school bus made for 30 - with at least 60 passengers (cost?  $.50).

Once back in Granada, we went through the market and bought some things then walked back toward our hotel.  It was about 3km away, and as we got near Central Parque....

El Principe.