Lake City, Colorado - A Texan's Paradise

Today is the last official day of my vacation.  I took six weeks off (and yes, I feel blessed to be able to do this).  But please, gentle men and women of the jury, before you judge me too harshly, know that I have worked over 22 years in law enforcement, I have seen and heard things that would keep most of you awake at night; I have been spit on; hit, and had one man tried to stab me (AND I didn't shoot or even injure him).  I don't ask for understanding or agreement - just some latitude {and I exhausted all of the time I have been accumulating over the years to accomplish this treat}.


 Last week, Marci, Kiana, Morgan, and I traveled to Marci's great-aunt's summer home in Lake City, Colorado.  It is located about 50 miles up the mountains from Gunnison, Colorado (another metropolis).  The town is a quaint mining beauty - still VERY much living the silver boom of the 1870's (and not facing the reality of the 2011 need for tourists).   The many old homes are stunning reminders that the wealth of a decade (the 1870's), once propelled this small village to one of the largest towns in the new state of Colorado.  Both Gold and Silver brought THOUSANDS of American's (seeking their fortunes) to this remote high altitude abode.

American Basin - Far Above Lake City, Colorado

But for us, this visit was about family.  Sure, we saw the cute houses, visited the museum, and drove through ghost towns... but 82-year-old Ann was what REALLY made this trip special.  Ann (a multi-year docent of the Hindsdale County Museum) took us on a personal tour.  She told the rote stories she'd repeated a thousand other times (for strangers) and added a little spice for family.  It was especially cute when she puffed out her chest in pride at being a part of the group who interpreted a message from an oppressed Italian Miner found on the wall of the old museum.  She said she was happy to have been a part of telling that man's story (I don't think this was part of the traditional tour).

Ann is amazing.  She is what we all hope to be graced with for a grandmother.  She is sweet, kind, funny, playful, full of memory and life, and spunky enough to tell it like it is without fear of repercussion.  More than once I wondered how nice it would have been to grow up blessed with a grandmother like this.

I spent many hours listening to her stories (some more than once).  BUT WHAT A JOY!!!  She is so gracious, lady-like, and loving.  She made us feel welcome from the moment we got there to a devastated soul-mate when we left.  We told jokes, played scrabble, saw the life that was important to her, listen to stories, had a 'weenie' roast (does anyone REALLY say that anymore?), and sat quietly on the porch in the gloaming of the day - enjoying one another's presence.

Ann Bowling posing (reluctantly) at the site of her husband Dewey's Final Rest

Ann Bowling is a woman among women.  She has raised an amazing family, been married to a wonderful man (Dewey - whom she obviously loves and misses dearly even though he's been gone 15 years), been a part of making her community better (leading blood drives for the Red Cross for most of her adult life) and even now volunteering at the local museum...   If she is not a role model - then who is? 

Ann drives her 4x4 through a 12,000 ft Rocky Mountain stream

I, having only just met Ann Bowling, hope to see her again soon.  I want to drive into the mountains and look at the fall colors (did I forget to mention that she was 4 wheeling at 12,000 feet during our visit?), to share a cup of coco on a cold fall afternoon, and also hope to see her million dollar smile when I present her Christmas present. 

Joy.

Something we do not see enough of - yet she has in abundance - and readily gives away.....

Freedom - the Last Nicaraguan Blog

There is so much I could write about this amazing place.  And even more about the people.  If you have learned nothing, remember that Nica's are among the friendliest people on the planet.  DO NOT let your biased perspective (most likely from the 1980's) color your decision to visit this place.  If you may hate the food (you won't), find Nothing to do (again - p-l-e-a-s-e!), or dislike the humidity,  I guarantee that when you speak to your friends you will RAVE about the AMAZING people of Nicaragua!!!

However, we have been home two weeks - and I need to write about a new adventure.  So I choose to abandon all other Nica blogs and end the trip with a true insight (that, alas, I cannot take credit for). 

Freedom.

You may recall that I mentioned that Nicaragua is a Socialist Republic (the Sandanistas - under Daniel Ortega {yes, the same one} are still in power - though the opposition is EVEN more liberal: FARC).  I suppose you would not expect to see much freedom?

One night, near the end of our stay on Ometepe, a friend we met (from Texas) said to me, "I remember seeing these people and turning to Megan ad saying, 'Wow, babe, this is what it looks like to be FREE!'."  At first, this seemed a VERY odd remark.  These folks are desperately seeking to survive.  They support socialism, and think that the capitalist US is a terrible player on the world stage.  But as I listen to Jason's words of wisdom, I realized, he is SO RIGHT!

You must abandon your pre-conceived notions - about America (the US), Central America, Communism, Socialism, and Capitalism to understand this - but if you are willing.... 

Nicaraguans do not worry about car seat laws (even thought hey would likely save many lives), they don't think about stop signs, traffic stops, yielding to oncoming vehicles, transporting hazardous materials (like propane on a bicycle).  Nica's don't worry about whether they have a license to sell tortillas on the street (or even whether such a license exists).  Nica's don't worry about fishing licenses, driver's licenses, sales permits, or tax stamps.  They don't worry about real estate regulations or lawsuits because of negligent repair of a side walk.  Nica's don't worry about the health department, social services, OSHA, whether burning trash is allowed, Park Rangers (much less where you can or CANNOT put a camp fire).  They don't have Smoky the Bear and they certainly don't give a hoot about giving a hoot about polluting (no Indians crying here...).  Nica's don't have an antiquities act - steal all the pre-Columbian you can carry! There are no health regulations, seat belt admonitions, freedom (From) religion watchdogs (almost every town has a patron saint, predominantly displayed as you drive into town).  If kids are bad in school (or on the street) they get their asses kicked, and parents are embarrassed if someone else has to do it.  If a bus passes too close - MOVE OVER idiot, no sense in yelling at the driver!  And trust me, no one sticks their hand in your 'business' when you go through 'security' at the airport.

Think to your own life.  Even as a police officer - I admit to being embarrassed at the 'laws' and 'regulations' I must  enforce.  You (a US citizen - purportedly among the freest of peoples in the world) have to spend your day worrying about which regulations you may be violating and who might sue you. 

Not in Nicaragua.  If you screw up - your neighbors will let you know.  If you screw up real bad - you will be banished.  And not by the police (we only saw them act ONCE in the three weeks we were there).  It will be your friends and neighbors who will decide and exact justice.

And we, the 'freest' of the free in the world, have to worry about the every growing list of things we CANNOT do (like eating butter in New York, smoking in a public place, or GOD FORBID taking your dog out WITHOUT a LEASH!!!!).

It does leave you wondering who is REALLY free?

Until we travel again~

The Undaunted Travelers

Transportation Nica style

As most of you know, we are back home now.  However, because of the time we spent on Ometepe (when we couldn’t use the Internet) we have decided to post a few more to wrap up our observations and Nicaraguan experience.

One of the more ‘interesting’ aspects of Nicaragua (from the large city roads of Managua – to the country lanes on Ometepe) is the variety of transportation modes.  We have related some of them, but thought it might be nice to compare them all in once place.

After landing late the first night – we took the Universal Studios’ ‘Third World Taxi at Night Experience’ to our hotel (and it only cost ten dollars). As we mentioned, this small privately owned low rider (oops, “custom’ Toyota) weaves in and out of traffic, around accidents, and seemingly under large trucks, as it makes its way to a destination.  There is a general belief by taxi divers that they are better at their job if they can get you to your destination faster (dead or alive!).

Now, taxis are reliable, cheap, and the divers VERY honest.  We found them friendly and they were happy to take us places during our visit.  Also remember, they have to pay almost $7 per gallon – so they need fares to pay the bills.

The bus – we could devote an entire blog to this mode of transport.  They are reliable (although have no concept of ‘on time’).  They are even a bit comfortable, but PACKED beyond belief – and in truth, and experience not to be missed.

Private vehicles.  There just aren’t many.    But most often, they belong to the very rich.  Another interesting note, Nica’s believe that Toyota is the finest vehicle made in the world, so you see most wealthy Nica’s in Toyota SUV’s.

Motorcycle.  There are a bunch (of all varieties – except perhaps Harley’s).  They zip everywhere and wealthy young men show off on them.  Not many helmets, and families ride two or three to a bike – even holding infants on laps and handle bars.  Crazy!

Bicycle.  There are SO MANY!  This is a very common mode of transport and they ride right in the road with everyone else.  If there is a law about who has the right of way – no one here knows it.  Basically, whoever goes first gets to go.  It has NOTHING to do with tonnage or danger – it is orchestrated chaos!

Finally, most Nica’s get where they have to go by walking (this was our primary method too).  They don’t walk fast (but as much in the shade as possible). But you can see Nica’s walking EVERYWHERE!  Some carry heavy loads, others just meander to whatever place they are headed.  Groups of school kids cluster and play as they go to and fro (very visible because of their matching uniforms). 

Did I say finally?  Silly me, I forgot an ENTIRE mode of transportation in Nicaragua.  SO MANY use animals to get around.  They ride horses and donkeys, or they attach carts to oxen or mules.  It is so odd to see a caravan with an oxcart, a motorcycle, a pedestrian, a carriage, another motorcycle, a Forerunner, and three bicycles (at rush hour).

In any event, Nica’s get where they are going, and like almost everything else they do, they do it with a smile and a wave!

USA – an easy target

When in Granada – you WILL see “gringos”.  They are often a bit ‘stand offish’ and seem to be annoyed that your presence is spoiling ‘their’ Central American adventure.  ALL Nicas greet you warmly – gringos do not.

On Ometepe, you will interact with mostly gringos (although the island is populated almost exclusively by Nicas).  This is because Ometepe is a premier world traveling destination and vagrants (oops, I mean backpackers) from around the world can enjoy a police free state for about $10 per day.

We met people from Belgium, England, Germany, Switzerland, Canada, Norway (you should have seen Heidi’s shock when I belted out her national anthem!) and of course, the US.  There were some nice conversations – but in general most people don’t care for the US (including most of the backpackers from the US).

Jason - a US Professor of Anthropology

On our first night, Senor Molina and Jason (an Anthropology professor from a Southeastern Missouri college) heaped disdain on the US for its poor educational system, poor health care system, ‘closed minded’ attitude, overbearing world influence, the crime rates, and on and on.  We sat silently.  Senor Molina, to enforce a point, told the following story about the terrible US health care system:

A friend of his was morbidly obese (typically a self-induced condition – I’m just sayin’).  He decided to undergo gastric bypass.  The procedure (done for free in Nicaragua) went terribly bad and he was very sick.  To remedy this he traveled to the US – knowing that one of the best hospitals to fix this was in Miami.  The doctors there agreed to perform the surgery, but the hospital required a substantial ($75,000) down payment – prior to the elective surgery (no doubt this policy results from people getting surgery and then fleeing the country without payment).  The man found the money, got the surgery (which was VERY successful) and then left without paying the remainder of the $400,000 bill.  What a terrible system!

I sat there thinking, “I must be missing something”?  A foreign national, from a country with free (but obviously inferior) health-care, came to the US (where there is VERY good care) and was treated for less than a 25% down-payment.  He got fixed, fled the rest of the bill (which no doubt, we are now all paying for) and went home well. For a condition HE BROUGHT ON HIMSELF.  I am not sure what the better answer was.  I guess we were supposed to pay for it all?  Later, a Canadian couple whispered that had the man traveled to Canada, he wouldn’t have been treated for free and would have had more than a year’s wait. 

To make things worse, Jason (sporting his blonde dred locks) was happy to rail against all things American (oops – US). 

I left thinking that I could have spent the evening pointing out the terrible poverty, lack of education, and obvious class system of Nicaragua.  I could note the trash in the streets, the untreated water, the electrical blackouts, and lack of any government infrastructure (schools, roads, social services, low income assistance, animal services, etc.).  But I did not.  Because it isn’t respectful to visit someone’s house and to point out the worst aspects.  And I kept hearing Thumper from Disney’s Bambi, “If you can’t say nothing nice, don’t say nothing at all.”

What makes Ometepe special~

 Ometepe was formed by two volcanos, Concepcion (the tallest at over 1600 meters – or 5,249 feet) and Manderas (over 1400 meters - 4,593 feet).  They are in the middle of Lake Nicaragua (Cocibolca) which is the second largest fresh water lake in the Western hemisphere (Lake Titcaca in South America is the largest).  Lake Nicaragua is so large – it is home to the world’s only species of fresh water sharks.

Ometepe is a tropical paradise.  It burgeons with beautiful green trees, abundant flowers, sweeping rice and plaintain farms, and quaint villages.  There is only one real road (about fifty miles in a figure eight) and it goes around the edges of the island.  The people are friendly and the atmosphere is very relaxed.

There is also a great deal to do – or nothing at all if that floats your boat.  In fact, we alternated between hiking, kayaking, horseback riding, and laying in our hammock reading.  Other than our trip to Canada – we have never been more relaxed in our lives.

There are several attractions we want to mention for those who may be thinking about your own Nicaraguan adventure:

• San Ramon Cascade (waterfall) is gorgeous.  A four km walk ( 2.5 miles) from the town of Merida to the INCREDIBLE Ometepe Biological Station in San Ramon.  From there (after a stop for COLD purified water) the hike to the waterfall is about 3 km.  It is very doable – but steep and challenging.  We opted for horses and rode to within 200 m of the falls and hiked the rest of the way.  The falls are AMAZING – and if you are lucky enough to catch the sun (it is in the cloud forest) the water shines and you feel like you’ve caught a glimpse of paradise.  The water is refreshingly cool.  With a drop of 180 m (591 feet) Well worth the $2 fee!

 

Matt enjoys the 'cascade' (falls)

• Monkey Island.  There is a group of very small islands near Merida.  Some time ago monkeys were placed on two of the islands.  They had been captured on the volcano and transported to attract tourists.  Since monkeys hate the water – they stay and have begun to breed and grow.  They are relatively free – but rely on food brought by the boats (which of course, lures the animals to the tourists).  Some guides say it was Senor Molina who brought the monkeys (to improve tourism at his hacienda), however, Mr. Molina says someone else put them there.  In any event, we were lucky enough to go by powerboat.  Since we had nice cameras, Senor Molina sent workers to cut a path around the island (it has been several years since he allowed this to be done) and we were dropped off to spend time with the monkeys and get AWESOME shots.  So fun!

Not happy that we were on HIS island

• Petroglyphs – hiking.  The Mayan Empire stretched down into Nicaragua and there are incredible remains from this stunning culture.  They carved elaborate figures into the volcanic rocks on the island of Ometepe.  There is even a hostel at the park with the petroglyphs and it is very beautiful.  

 
 

• Kayaking the Istian River swamp.  We hired guides (to navigate and to help with propulsion as we took photos) through this beautiful river/swamp.  There was an abundance of wildlife and flowers.  It was so tranquil.  I’d go again tomorrow!

Marci enjoys the tranquility in the swamp

• We didn’t do any of the other activities, but most of the other visitors to the Hacienda raved about hiking the volcanoes (extremely strenuous), there is a half day of sailing available, you can rent tubes to plow through the lake waters behind the speed boat, there is swimming and fishing, some great museums with carved Mayan statues, and also some great natural beaches for lounging.

Did I mention that Ometepe is not to be missed?

Hacienda Merida – a vacation from our vacation

The town of Merida (probably about 200 souls) is on the far side of Ometepe.  You can only reach it with a very sturdy four-wheel drive, a mountain bike, the chicken bus, or by boat.  It is truly nestled in the jungle and surrounded by water.

Most of the inhabitants of the town (or island for that matter) survive by farming (plantains, rice, and tropical fruit), fishing, livestock, or a tourist related trade.  One popular new industry is to open your farm to tourists who want to live with a Nica farming family for a bit.

The Hacienda Merida is owned and operated by Alvaro Molina.  He is a Nica, but is also a US citizen and lived many years in Florida before coming home to set up an environmentally conscious hostel and English school.  You cannot be at the Hacienda for more than fifteen minutes without Senor Molina showing you photos, telling stories, or showing video about his passion – improving Nicaragua (and we know – we heard him do it every time a new visitor straggled in!)

Hacienda Merida

Senor Molina, like all people, is multifaceted.  He is friendly, passionate, but headstrong and opinionated as well.  He loves to visit with guests as they pass through his hostel, but can be bossy with his staff and can often be heard ordering a simple cup of coffee instead of walking a few feet to get his own.  And when Senor Molina speaks to his staff – they run.

But he loves his country - and he is very ingenious.  He will not serve beef in his restaurant because he feels that beef is causing deforestation.  All of the meals are wholesome and made from scratch.  Fresh fruit, stone ground wheat, and cold beer. 

It doesn’t take but a few minutes in Nicaragua to see that people just throw their trash where they please – and it’s ugly, smelly, and draws insects and illness.  Senor Molina pays local children $C 20 ($1) to fill liter water bottles with trash (solving two problems at once).  He collects these and then incorporates them into projects requiring concrete.  He just uses the bottles as part of the filler.

Senor Molina also believes that Nicaraguans will dramatically improve their positions if they learn English (we have repeatedly seen that this is true).  So, he offers reduced cost lodging and meals to people who will commit to teach English to young children during a multi-week stay.  The program appears very successful and we saw it in action several times.  Many local kids (including his own ADORABLE daughter Itzel – are learning English and Spanish at the same time).

Itzel Molina - 3 Years Old

We had a great time getting to know Senor Molina and observing him building his dream.  Who says one person can’t make a difference?

Isla de Ometepe

As we mentioned, one of the places we were determined to see on our Nicaraguan adventure was the island of Ometepe (OH-ma-tep-Ay).  It is in the middle of lake Nicaragua and receives high praise in guidebooks, by passing tourists, and most importantly – all the Nicas rave about it.

Getting around this country can be easy and hard.  I guess it depends on your perspective.  Of course, in the US, we would pack the car, grab our keys, and set off.  Almost NO ONE does that here. 

A wealthy Nica (or tourist) will typically take a ‘private’ taxi (you have to pay extra if you don’t want him to stop and fill the remaining seats with other travelers).  And the taxis are normally 1990’s Honda’s or Toyotas (don’t even think about a seat belt).  The cost to travel this way to the terminal (san Jorge – about an hour away) is about $30-40.  The other option is to ride the bus for about $0.70 per person.  What the hell – we took the bus.

Just off the market in Granada is the main bus ‘terminal’.   Think fifteen-foot chain link fences to protect the five-acre mud packed lot – strewn with decades of garbage and roving packs of dogs.  Then add twenty men yelling out destinations as they stand next to their shiny silver buses.  Well, maybe not shiny – or silver…  Ok, actually the buses are all very old with markings from whatever US school or Church they died at. 

Here in Central America, with a fresh coat of red paint, some flowers or butterflies, muslin curtains, and a good set of bad tires – you have yourself a business! 

We got to the terminal early (7:15 AM).  The bus was scheduled to depart at 7:30 – and we got a good seat right behind the driver (the second to last one).  I squeezed our backpack (we consolidated and left the other with Winston at the Hotel Posada del Sol).  Marci heaved the camel backs and her purse on top, and we winnowed our way across the bench.  I did have to move the driver’s onions and dry cheese a bit as well.

The view from behind our seat on the 'chicken' bus

The bus was not nearly as packed as the one we took down from mount Mombacho.  Silly me.  I didn’t realize that in Nica time, 7:30 is really 8:00, and about forty people boarded the bus as we sat sweltering in the morning sun.  You cannot begin to imagine how many people pack in there.  Seriously.  And some bring animals, goods to sell in the market, or…. 

The ferry to Ometepe

The ride was about two hours (the bus will stop in the middle of the road to pick up a new passenger) and we were dropped of at the kissing cousin (with much more mud) bus terminal in Rivas.  After a private taxi to San Jorge (we paid too much!  $10 – ughhhh), we bought our tickets for the ferry to Ometepe ($2.50 each).

The ferry over was pleasant (breezes blowing into the open windows from off the lake) and we had a GREAT time watching a karate movie that had been filmed in Asia, dubbed in English, and was now sub-titled in Spanish.  Too funny!  We met another US couple on the boat and agreed to share a taxi on Ometepe to cut down the cost.

Once on the island most people opt to take the bus.  However, we’d been warned that it could take THREE hours on a good day because the roads are so bad (and after driving on them in Danielo’s four-wheel-drive Land Rover – I think the three hour estimate is optimistic).

Finally, six hours later, we arrived at the Hacienda Meridia.  Stunning.

Marci found this place on a brochure in an American style restaurant in Granada.   It is right on the water, offers kayaks, horses, tours, and healthy buffet style meals.  The cost for a room with a private balcony and bathroom was $28.  Three days in paradise turned into seven (www.hmerida.com)

Hacienda Merida - our home for home for seven days

Ometepe is truly not to be missed.

Update - From deep in the Nicaraguan jungle

We Have not had Internet access for Three days! Will write more when back in 'civilization'.

Will report on ferocious monkeys, alligator encounters, and 150 meter waterfalls. We also met (and rode) Alpo and Gains Burgers' cousins (Purina and Kibbles & bits).

From a Central American rice paddy....