History from the 1300's to 1920's Murals in Mexico City

Mexico City is a complex place.  It is currently among the largest cities in the world and boasts major universities, cultural centers, and world class art.  There is also clear poverty.  So where does one start to explore this culture - the marriage of the Spanish conquistadors with not one, but many tribes of indigenous Americans?

Today, we will start with Hector Barraza.

Hector was born in Southern Mexico but was raised in Mexico City.  And he knows the city VERY well.  He spent his youth as a financial specialist and travelled the world in that profession.  He has lived in England (learning English by reading Animal Farm by George Orwell) and twice in the United States.  He now operates a personalized tour service in Mexico City (http://www.mexicocityelitetours.com/ or on Trip Advisor at Mexico City Elite Tours).

Hector at the first hospital in the Americas
Built by the Cortes in 1524

Hector met us at our hotel for a pre-arranged tour of the historic downtown of Mexico City.  We had arranged this over the Internet/email as he learned what we were most interested in and tailored the trip to suit our personalities.

We walked to the Metro station (all the way with me asking a 100,000 questions - each of which he patiently answered).  $20 pesos (less than $2 US) later we took the train to down town.  For the record, it was clean and safe!

After we got out of the train, we began to walk the historic district. Stopping every 100 yards or so to see an important building or place.  Mostly though, we were in search of murals.  Some are very well known (like Diego Rivera's communist murals in the public buildings) while others were located after searching for small staircases above the markets.  All were impactful and truly Mexican.

Hospital at Jesus Nazareno

We started at the Hospital of Jesus Nazareno , located where Cortes and Montezuma first met in 1515.  After the Mexican revolution (1920), the Spanish were roundly lambasted and depicted as evil.  But this is just not an accurate account of history.  Yes, they conquered and did some very bad things, but they also did some very good things.  Hector believes the ENTIRE story must be known.  He points out that his history includes the Aztecs, but also the Spanish, and later the combination of both.  The Mexican history is co-mingled.

But the story was primarily told to Mexicans through art.  This is because most Mexicans were illiterate well into the 20th Century. Thus - the abundance of murals throughout the city.

The top of a mural at the Hospital

What is impressive a about Mexico City is that there is a story being told at every turn.  And it is done through art and architecture.  More impressive - Hector knows all the stories.

The painting above the mural is 16th century!

Murals on every surface

A Diego Rivera Mural

We visited the hospital. Cortes' cousin's house, a convent, several other churches, a 1500's arch-bishop's house where Aztec ruins are being excavated underneath the already historic building, and on and on...

Taking a break above the Templar Mayor ruins
These were discovered in 1978 by telephone workers

Templar Mayor - being excavated

We ended our tour at the Mexican Metropolitan Cathedral.  Having just celebrated 200 years (since the final parts were completed) it is a must see marvel.  It is famous, for among other things, the fact that it is sinking. Having been built atop Aztec ruins (like much of the city) the foundations are too heavy and are slowly sinking.

One of the alters is unbelievable.  All gold plated - it would take hours to take the whole thing in!

Royal Alter in the Mexico City Cathedral

We got back to the hotel at about 3:30 PM.  We took a ten minute rest and then walked to the grocery store.  We found that we are in a very quaint neighborhood.  Quiet and clean with great shops and bistros. After buying items necessary for survival (Herradura Tequila, Dos XX beer, Hummus and crackers, deodorant for Marci (she was tortured at having to spend $4 - but didn't hesitate spending the $30 for Tequila), and some snacks.

Then we were off to dinner.  We found an excellent place (I mean truly, outstanding in both quality and service).  It was called Las Polas.  Marci had tacos and I had soup and stewed pork.

Now we are in bed watching Animal Planet in Spanish.

Undaunted!