Showing posts with label isletas de granada. Show all posts
Showing posts with label isletas de granada. Show all posts

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

The Isletas of Lake Granada and the River in the Commode

As I mentioned in the previous post - we are spending today in our room, close to the bathroom.  But heck - that's ok!  It is incredibly relaxing, I am writing, and Marci is sleeping.  The room is almost 90*, but there are two fans, and that really does make a difference.

About the heat.  It's hot.  Really hot.  So what?  We come from a mild dry climate and were prepared to experience very hot humidity (and we do - day and night).  But that is Central America - so if you want to stay cooped up in a boutique 'American standard' hotel -go ahead.  But if you want to see and love these people and their country, don't turn on your air-conditioner this summer.  You'll be fine.

After looking at the nice home outside Granada (asking price $290,000 (but an El Principe birdy says it can be had for a less that $275,000) we went out on the lake to Allan's fisherman's friends home.

Getting on the boat
The boat ride into Lake Granda

Marci sipping Tona beer
After about 45 minutes, we reached an island with monkeys on it.  These monkey come from nearby Mt. Mochambo, and they DON'T like water.  A local vet put them on the island so that tourists could see and feed them, in the hopes that an appreciation for wildlife would increase.  They won't leave the island because they don't swim and they are fed bananas by the passing boats.  We took our turn as well and it was pretty cool to see a monkey eating from Marci's hand.
This monkey will eat from your hand

Watching Marci to see if she has more













A little while later we landed at Allan's friend's island.  It is about the size of a large American house lot.  There is a decent home, wide open seating for the family or guests, and a washing area on the lake.  We were lucky enough to come on wash day.  The kids were very nice and the baby adorable.  I have never tasted fish that was better in my life - and Marci really loved it too.  Along with the fish we had Tona beer and the National drink of Nicaragua (local rum, coke, lime juice, and salt over ice).

We had a very nice afternoon with Allan and the family - but hastily left after a monsoon like downpour descended.  But the rain was warm, the 'pilot' accomplished, and it was uneventful back to the dock.  Besides,  the liquid courage had ahold of us all.

Wash day on the isleta

Momma doing her hair

The best tasting fish I've ever had!

PS I should mention that as a lover of all things archeological (antiguo) I noticed a mono and matate in the fireplace.  The island's owner (Allan always calls these women 'mama' posed with it for me to photograph).  Originally I thought it might still be in use, but it turns out that it is many hundreds of years old (Mayan).  Allan explained that it would be illegal to transport this outside Nicaragua (sorry James) but if you have a residence here you may keep as many as you can find or buy.

An ancient mono and metate

The Prince of Granada

Allen 'working' and carrying Marci's bag
Allan Cesar Blandon Sanchez (allancesar219@hotmail.com) is called Allan by his gringo customers, Pelon (baldy) by his Nicaraguan acquaintances, Napoleon by the people at the docks of lake Granada, filthy Spanish invectives (ranging from lewd references to genitalia to man with lice in his ass) by his friends, to my name for him, The Prince of Granda ( El Principe) .

It is tough to know where to start with Allan.  I have known him for two days, but I feel like I've known him since High School.  He is someone that James would just LOVE!

Allan is 34 years old.  He lives with his mother, grandmother, and shares a bedroom with his eighteen year old brother.  He has been in prison (drugs), rehab (drugs), and spent many years on the wrong side of the law (he was the head of the gang in his barrio).  He doesn't hide a thing about his past, or what he is willing to procure for his customers (it is easier to tell you what he won't do: child prostitution, marijuana over 5g, or kill someone for money).

Allan explains about fermenting fruit
Allan waits at the Parque Central looking for gringos who need assistance with a hotel, or place to eat, or a tour, or taxi, or "company", or.....  Like the guy in Shawshank Redemption - he is a guy "who gets things".  He does this because of his incredible  English skills (self taught from the tourist trade) and dynamic personality.  He is jovial, always moving (he says he probably has ADHD), and engaging.  He is patient, and will stop anywhere and explain (like the meat stall or flower market) whatever it is you want to know.  He constantly reminds us that we are "his boss" and will fetch us drinks, make a reservation, or show us the city.  And he never forgets to remind us that he can do it 'much cheaper' because he 'has a friend'.

And he is right.

El Principe  is a remarkable man.  The city of Granada has over 100,000 souls.  And Allan personally greets one out of three of them, on every corner, on every block...  They yell a friendly hello, bump his fist, and give him a look that indicates they understand he is 'working' and don't bother him.  At least one of every four taxi drivers honk when they see him.

El Principe on the boat tour
And El Principe delivers.  We took a chartered boat (we were the only passengers) for the entire day through the isletas of Granada.  After a great tour and a visit to monkey island we stopped at the home of a fisherman and his family.  They cooked us a giant fresh fish and the cost of the entire day (including the national drink of Nicaragua (rum, coke, lime and salt) and beer) was $60. 

El Principe can make $30 on a very good day - but he describes a wealthy American who paid him $5 per day as well.  He always says, "It is my job to please you, pay what your heart tells you".  Yesterday morning, we handed him a $100 bill.

I realize in the states this must sound insane.  You are screaming at your computer - telling us to STOP drinking Siete Flor de Cana (Nica rum - aged seven years) and Tona Beer.  But if you really know Marci and I, it isn't a big surprise.  Allan likes to say, "You earn(ed) my heart".

El Principe asking to see the home
The sala in the wealthy home
View of the interior garden
On Sunday afternoon, as Alpo and Gains Burgers ground to a halt (not that you could really tell)  El Principe was ready to show us some houses and hotels that were for sale (by owner - so the commission doesn't have to be paid (ok, so maybe El Principe will get a small taste...)).  We even toured them and were treated in grand style.  We sat with a wealthy family in their GORGEOUS colonial home as Allan 'wowed them" with the tale about how important I am because I work for the Chief of Police and am on American television (after he saw an interview of me from the Internet he says he feels like he is only 'black and white' tv now...).

Marci talking to the homeowner






The next day we were even driven to a stunning residence, a few minutes outside of Granada, to look at a home (well two actually) with seven bedrooms, five bathrooms, a fifteen foot wall around the property and a swimming pool (oh yeah - the poor family would like to stay in one of the small rooms in exchange for taking care of the property if we'd like). 

The gardener and family come with the house
The dining room in the guest house 







So who is Allan, I mean really?

Well, I mentioned that he took us for a walking tour of Granda the first night.  After dark, he asked if we trusted him, and we said that we did.  So he brought us to 'his' neighborhood.  He explained that the people are 'a little more humble' here.  That they would be glad to have us in their 'village' taking pictures or 'whatever'.

We walked into the darkest poorest place I've ever seen.  But we had no fear at all.  Everyone knew and respected Allan and gave us little mind at all.  We ended up at his mother's favorite restaurant where we ate chicken, fried plantains, and a vinegar based cole slaw with sodas.  The entire bill with tip was $8.00 (oh, and that included a take out meal on a banana leaf 'plate' that Marci bought for his mother).  Then we walked through dingy back alleys to Allan's home and met his mother.  I haven't asked, but it doesn't seem like too many gringos have done this by the look on her face.  She was overjoyed to get the food!

We cannot wait to continue our love affair with this country!